BORIS BIDJAN SABERI FALL/WINTER 2016
BORIS BIDJAN SABERI - FALL/WINTER 2016
Boris Bidjan Saberi, the King of avant-garde, luxury design, maintains form and consistency for his Fall Winter 2016 collection. Exploring his oeuvre in depth with a minimalist, dystopian Sci-Fi aesthetic that is accompanied by his usual military influences.
Following on from his previous SS15 and FW15 collections of Red and Blue dominance, functionality takes center stage for his latest offering, with parachute and sky-diving gear reincarnated into something more innovative for the Saberi wearer in a toned down palette. The use of volume is prevalent in the short-sleeve, long zip-neck pieces. Perpendicular lines give a minimal feel, bringing a strong focus to the pattern and detail presented through out the collection. All of this is pulled together with a neutral colour palette dominated by dirty whites, greys and blacks that allow Saberi to showcase his experimental finishes and fabrications.
Fabrics were free flowing, and of course were complimented by Saberi’s trademark house-tanned skins. Horse, kangaroo, springbok and yak leathers were all noted. Sleeves zipped partially off rumpled parkas and gigantic shearlings, representing the freedom that one experiences due to gravity. Hidden shoulder straps were used on tailored coats and parkas, which allowed Saberi to further his experimentation with layers and length. It was a balancing act of contrasting weights of fabric. Drop crotch pants, oversized in volume were paired with coats that were lined in merino shearling wool and pony skin jackets.
Highlights included gathered detailing to the backs of jackets. A fanny-like waist pack crafted from raw leather featured sporadically through out, and felt quite masculine as well as practical. Thin-frame sunglasses (in two variations) reminiscent to the shape of aviators, were made in a collaboration with Werkstatt München. Silver metal headbands were another added touch. It was dark, sharp and blended a little bit of Saberi’s streetstyle with innovation. This is Boris Bidjan Saberi at his best: an unforgiving sartorial rigor for the purest of Saberi fans.
Content source: Deuxhommes.