LEON EMANUEL BLANCK SS16
LEON EMANUEL BLANCK - SS16
German based designer Leon Emanuel Blanck infues a Post-Apocalyptic Sci-Fi aesthetic into his latest offering. Bending and obscuring the traditional methods of pattern cutting, Leon takes an audacious, artistic approach to the creation of each piece. Working this season with woven luminescent molt, Japanese slow-knit rib, Japanese selvedge denim, waxed bison leather, wild boar leather, over-dyed cotton and horse leather Leon adds to the brands evolving experimental archive.
In this holistic project, every single piece of the collection was shaped using this method. Some of the pieces were crystallised into sculptures, using a technique adapted from naval architecture. Every pattern for each size is handcrafted and takes up to seventy hours of work.
While using an atypical way of pattern making, the anatomy and the movement of the human body naturally creates the sutures, diminishing “put-on” design.
All garments are created the same way. First a cast is formed around the moving human body, yielding the prototype pattern that will be used for the first prototype-clothing piece. This piece is then adjusted on the naturally created seams to reveal a final garment.
ANFRACTUOUS DISTORTION is the result of his experiment, trying to drape a pair of pants around himself, whilst constantly moving. This process resulted in an odd-fitting pair of pants, distorted. However, the coalescing seams, this unusual approach, and the interesting way the material and pattern evolved on the body fascinated him.
In this project, the design process is reduced to the minimum; every cut arises naturally through the flow of the fabric during the forming procedure. In a way, the process is even more technical than it is archaic; the outcome is a cutting edge organic collection that abolishes all preconceived ideas of pattern making. He only decides if the piece will become an upper or lower body garment, then let’s the material and the body interact during the forming procedure.
LEON EMANUEL BLANCK not only pushes boundaries with his pattern making method, but also by completely abolishing symmetry within his garments. This is all the more natural, considering his idea that the human body is not symmetrical either. One dropped shoulder, one arm longer or thicker than the other or even scoliosis make it obvious that it is not enough to just form one body half and then mirror the pattern. Therefore not a single piece is found twice within one garment.
Considering the sheer complexity, high technicality and uniqueness of his garments, with each sometimes consisting of more than 20 pieces, it becomes evident that the pattern making and sewing is extremely complicated and time-consuming.
ANFRACTUOUS DISTORTION’s complete anarchy results in a particular collection, which goes through a construction/deconstruction process to finally come to life. Every piece is a body cast that is molded into a sculpture and then gradually destroyed in order to create a pattern, which will give birth to a wearable piece of clothing.
Every piece of the collection was once a sculpture fitted perfectly to the human anatomy without any regular seaming, coming to life once worn by people.
- C R E D I T S -
Photography: Philipp Altheimer
Model: Klim Müller